[#Travelogue] A Walk Around Pune

It all started afresh in the morning. The sun was rising on the horizon. The city was waking up. The first thing I felt after reaching Pune was its air. There was almost a smell of freshness in the air as I breathed in. Was it because I was coming from Delhi which was called one of the most polluted cities? Or was it that the smell was of a nostalgia which should be natural for me? I had a couple of hours which I wanted to splurge in an aimless walk. Thanks to smartphones we are never ill-equipped to capture a moment these days. Hence I walked.

This was the city which was my home for six fruitful years. How does it feel visiting your city as a tourist? It felt weird – as if there was something secretive about me walking in. Did people realize I was walking in there after so many months? I walked on the same roads and pavements; looked at the same buildings and sky; came across the same people and their eyes; I can’t sum up the feeling but some feeling that was!

The first place to go was naturally the Dagduseth Ganapati Temple. Before coming to Pune, I had lived in Mumbai for hour years where I had developed a special bond with Lord Siddhivinayak. In the form of this Ganesh temple, I had found a continuation of affection and faith which I so desired.

It was early in the morning when I walked in; and it felt having never gone away as I walked out.

This is the Dagduseth Ganapati Temple of Pune: 

From there as I walked towards Shaniwar Wada, I found Lal Mahal on my right hand side. The current Lal Mahal is the reconstruction of the original. The original Lal Mahal was built by Shivaji's father Shahaji Bhosale around 1630. Shivaji stayed there with his mother Jijabai for many years.

It was in this Lal Mahal where an encounter happened between Shivaji and Shaista Khan, a Mughal general and maternal uncle of Aurangzeb. Shaista Khan had arrived in Pune with a large army and had captured several palaces and forts around it. Shivaji made a surprise attack on him in the night which made Shaista Khan flee. While fleeing from Lal Mahal, he lost his three fingers in an attack from Shivaji’s sword. After this defeat, he was insulted and was shifted from Pune forever by Aurangzeb. Currently Lal Mahal houses a museum. 

In the same area we can see some heritage buildings like below:

Then I reached Shaniwar Wada. Built in 1732, this was the seat of the great Peshwa Rulers of the Maratha Empire from where they ruled over most part of India for a long period. Inside the fort they had their grand multi-storied palace made from teak wood which was gutted in a fire reportedly started by the British after the later had captured it.

If you have watched the recent movie Bajirao Mastani which is based on the life of Peshwa Bajirao I; the palace shown in the movie is based on the actual palace which was inside Shaniwar Wada - the palace-fort which was built by Peshwa Bajirao I. The river shown in the movie which Peshwa Bajirao sails in a boat in a famous scene, is the Mula-Mutha river in Kasba Peth which is very near to the fort. 

A splendid statue of Peshwa Bajirao I is installed outside the main gate called ‘Dilli Darwaja’ of the Shaniwar Wada.

Some other buildings and scenes which I came across are put below. Some of these are beautiful heritage buildings too. 

The last picture sums up my experience very well – pleasant!

Although I have presented it in images, my experience could best be called poetic. Nothing but poetic. 

Btw, you may also like to see my other blog post capturing images of the temples of Pune which I came across during my visit:

http://rahultiwaryuniverse.blogspot.in/2017/02/some-wonderful-temples-in-pune.html

All pictures (C) - Rahul Tiwary

Some Wonderful Temples in Pune

The original name of city of Pune was 'Punyanagri' meaning 'City of Virtue'. It is only natural that temples and places of worship can be found all across it. On a recent trip, I captured images of some of the Hindu Temples which I have often visited there and which adorn it so beautifully. While going through it you would notice the diversity of deities and forms which only prove the cultural richness of the city. 

Dagadusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple at Budhvar Peth, Pune

This is one of the most beautiful temples I have seen in life. Dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the temple also has a Shiva temple. Dagadusheth Ganesh Mandir was built by Dagadusheth Halwai (Dagadusheth Gadve) in year 1893 and was important point when Balgangadhar Tilak started public celebrations of Ganapati Festival (Ganesh Puja).

On a fresh morning I captured this image in which also you can also see the Lord: 

Shrimant Peshawe Ganesh Mandir at Shaniwar Wada, Pune

This temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha was built before work on Shaniwar Wada began. Built in 1732, Shaniwar Wada was the seat of the Peshwa rulers from where they ruled most of India. 

Shaniwar Wada Maruti Mandir, Pune

This is a temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman in front of 'Delhi Gate' or Dilli Darwaja of Shaniwar Wada. 

Premal Vitthal Mandir at Kasba Peth, Pune

Kasba Peth is the  oldest residential part of Pune and adjacent to Shaniwar Wada (fort). Lord Vitthala or Vithoba is considered manifestation of Lord Vishnu and his consort is Rukmini. Temples dedicated to him are found all across Pune and Maharashtra.

Sant Tukaram Maharaj Paduka Mandir at Fergusson College Road, Pune

It is dedicated to Saint Tukaram, a 17th century Marathi poet-saint of Bhakti movement. 

Vitthal Rukmini Mandir at Aundh, Pune

Lord Vitthala or Vithoba is considered manifestation of Lord Vishnu and his consort is Rukmini. Temples dedicated to him are found all across Pune and Maharashtra. This temple at Aundh is situated near a river. 

Chaturshringi Mandir at Senapati Bapat Road, Pune

This temple was built during the time of Chhatrapati Shivaji. Chaturshringi means 'a mountain with four peaks'. The main deity of the temple is Goddess Durga. It may be noted that Shivaji was worshipper of Goddess Bhavani. Durgapuja or Navaratri is celebrated with much fanfare here.

Mayureshwar Ganesh Mandir at Thergaon, Pune

Across Pune you would find Ganesha temples at several places. One such temple is shown below, which is Mayureshwar Ganesh Mandir near Dange Chowk, Thergaon, Pune

Dutta Mandir at a Housing Society in Pune

Hindus have this practice of keeping a small temple or place of worship in their homes. When housing societies became the norm, even the societies created small temples within their premises. You can see one such temple dedicated to Lord Dutt or Lord Dattatreya. Lord Dattatreya is considered an avatar of the three Hindu gods Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Lord Dattatreya is shown with three heads, one coming from each of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. You will find Dutta Mandirs all across Pune and Maharashtra.

Shri Ram Temple in Chinchwad

This is one of the most beautiful temples you would ever see. The whole temple appears as if made of gold. It is a big temple, very near to Chapekar Chowk in Chinchwad

All Pictures above (C) Rahul Tiwary

There are other wonderful temples which I missed visiting this time. For example, there is Shinde Chhatri Mandir - a temple built by the Scindia royal family which finds no parallel anywhere else!

Shinde Chhatri Mandir at Wanawadi, Pune

Hope you liked a sneak peek into the beautiful temples of Pune.

In next in this series I shall capture some of the heritage buildings of Pune.

Watch out this space for more!

- Rahul Tiwary

Shaniwar Wada in Pune

Shaniwar Wada is often the face of promotions for Pune Tourism. It was constructed by Peshwa Baji Rao I of Maratha empire in 1732. 'Shaniwar Wada' literally means 'Saturday Home'. 

In the below picture we can see 'Dilli Darwaja' meaning 'Delhi Gate' since it faces Delhi (North) - as a challenge to the Mughal empire. The steel spikes made in the gates were to discourage elephants from attacking it. 

There were around a thousand people living inside the fort. Teak wood from nearby Junnar forests of Pune was used extensively to make the buildings inside the fort which were exquisitely carved. The highest building inside the fort was seven storied high! 

In 1818 the British won over the fort from Peshwa Bajirao II and in 1828 there was a massive fire in the fort which destroyed all its buildings. People say that the British had set the fort to fire since it stood for Maratha Pride. Today only the foundation of the palace remains inside the fort which has been converted into a garden. We have visited it several times. In the ground adjoining it, Shaniwarwada Kala Mahotsav and lots of cultural festivals are conducted regularly.

Picture (below): Zooming in more to get glimpses of beautiful wall paintings:

(You can click on these pictures to see in bigger sizes)

Picture (below): Another Gate of Shaniwar Wada on the East side:

Picture (below): Glimpse of fountain and garden inside the fort palace:

Picture (below): Family Tree of the great Peshwas displayed inside the fort:

All pictures ©: Rahul